Advice
on Buying A Puppy.
We may know
of breeders with puppies for sale.
Check out the
Kennel Club Puppy Sales Register at: http://www.the-kennel-club.org.uk/
A pedigree
that is not registered with the Kennel Club is very often a forgery!
Please read
all the following advice carefully before buying
FAQ's.
"A breeder
who has no interest in rescue of what he has produced is of no value to
anyone, and of even less value to his breed."
~Dr. Malcolm
Willis, Breed Geneticist,
Author,
Genetic History of the German Shepherd Dog ~
SO YOU WANT TO
BUY A
GERMAN SHEPHERD
DOG?
A BUYERS GUIDE
By Dr.M.B.Willis.B.Sc.PhD. Breed Geneticist.
Introduction:
Anyone wanting to get into GSD's, whether this is with a view to becoming
a breeder or with a view to having a working dog or merely as a pet owner,
has to start somewhere and that means buying a dog. Most people get their
first dog as a puppy and at the time they may know very little of what
to look for or where to go to. Its a lucky first time buyer who goes to
the right place and buys the right dog but the more one sets out to 'do
it right' the greater the chances of success. Hopefully this article will
serve as a guide to purchase. It is not intended to show you what structural
features to look for in selecting a puppy which warrants an article in
its own right, but rather it concentrates on the features you ought to
be getting for your money.
Research.
Although there is considerable responsibilities in moral and legal terms
upon the seller there is also some obligation on behalf of the buyer to
investigate first. Is a GSD what you really want? That cuddly 7-8Kg puppy
will grow up to be about 65cms high and weigh about 36Kg. It will be very
active, hopefully intelligent, possibly vocal and live around 10 years.
It will put some restrictions upon your lifestyle that, as a dog free person
you currently do not have. Are you ready for all these things? Are you
prepared to invest time and effort in making your dog a 'good citizen'?
and have you the time and energy to exercise the animal? Would you be better
with a Lhasso Apso? Think about it carefully and don't buy a German Shepherd
Dog because you feel it will enhance any macho image you may think you
possess. Think about it long and hard, read up about the breed - there
are plenty of basic books on this breed - and don't be in a hurry
to buy. Within reason, the longer you study the issue before you start
to look for an actual dog, then the better the chance you should have to
get it right.
Advertising.
Most local newspapers have adverts for GSD's or Alsations as they are often
wrongly called and wrongly spelled. They will sound cheap, but beware.........
cheap is often cheap and nasty. If someone is selling a GSD puppy at £70
they CAN NOT be good. A reputable breeder could not afford to sell puppies
at that price. The local newspaper, the free paper and the Exchange and
Mart could include advertisements from highly reputable breeders but these
are not the usual locations in which reputable breeders advertise. This
is where research comes in. If you have done your homework you may have
found the local GSD Club and perhaps be told what to look for and what
to pay. Or you may have heard about the GSD Breed Councils 'Breeder Charter'
and a list of breeders who have signed this.
Maybe you have got into the 'National Magazine', 'Our Dogs' or 'Dogs World'.
Even in these laudable publications not everything may be pukka,
but you are in with a better chance. If you find an advert that seems interesting,
ring up and find out about what is on offer and if you think it sounds
good then make an appointment to view.
Going to look.
If you are a complete beginner, then try and take someone with you who
has a bit of an idea about dogs in general and GSD's in particular.
Don't go in your best suit if you are going to handle dogs, but don't go
looking like a scruff either. A breeder is going to have first impressions
and if you look like a pauper you may be considered unsuitable. If you
are married, take your spouse, a reputable breeder will want to know if
someone is home all day and if both parties are equally keen. We would
not sell a man a dog if his wife didn't really want one because if she
is at home all day she is the one who is going to have to deal with the
dog. We want our dogs to go to a home they will be happy in and live their
life out........ marital strife is the quickest way to ensure the dog comes
back......... maybe half ruined!
Be prepared to be quizzed. A breeder should want to know the sort of life
the dog might lead and what your plans and facilities are for the dog .
If the breeder seems more keen on getting your deposit and getting you
out, then be cautious. Maybe the breeder is just in it for the money and
the lack of interest expressed will be even more lacking if something goes
wrong and later you need help. Don't ever overstay your welcome. Breeders
are busy people and if they have spent some time with you remember they
will have dogs to attend to when you have gone. You should not be going
to see the puppies until they are at least 4 weeks old, preferably 6, and
a good breeder would probably want to see you once and then have you return
at around 8 weeks to pick the puppy. Before you see the puppies have a
look at how they are reared, and ask to see the mother. If the mother
is not available, be very cautious. Why can she not be seen? Is she a craven
coward or are the puppies just bought in for resale? If the mother is not
to be seen the I would not buy, and if she is of unsuitable character,
then I would make my excuses and leave. Seeing the father may not be possible
if it is someone else's dog, but you should be able to see pictures and
find out something about him. When you see the puppies, they should be
clean and in clean surroundings. They should not smell of urine or excreta.
They ought to come up to you eagerly as you go down on your haunches. At
this age fear should not be visible, and if they huddle away at the back
of their box/crate/kennel then do not buy. When you pick one it should
be happy and friendly and lick your face, not be as quiet as a mouse and
looking anxious. You should be given the opportunity to see the whole litter,
but if you know what sex you want then the members of the other sex and
any to be retained by the breeder should be taken away so you know you
are looking at potential puppies of the sex you want and not being confused
by pups you can not have.
Prices.
Prices vary by location, being dearer in the South than in the North. Prices
also depend upon the quality of the stud/ bitch used, the reputation of
the breeder and the quality of the individual puppy. Some breeders price
each pup separately, and others charge the same price for everything. Generally
one could expect to pay less for a long coat but not always so. However,
as a general rule a minimum price of about £450-£600 is about
the least one is going to pay for a decent pup, but the upper limit may
vary enormously. Be cautious about astronomical prices on an 8 week old
puppy. Some breeders ask for a deposit which would not be refundable if
you cancelled. Others may not, but if you are going to cancel, have the
grace to tell the breeder. Most breeders expect to be paid in cash,
not because they are going to con the tax man, but because if the buyer
is not genuine, (heaven forbid) at least one is not left with a bouncing
cheque. So on the day you go to buy take cash.
What do I get for my money?
If you are buying an 8 week old puppy then there are certain things that
you ought to expect as routine or that you ought to insist upon. You are
the buyer and to some degree, it is a buyers market. If the breeder does
not produce the kind of sale and after sales service that you want, then
might you not be better going elsewhere.
Kennel Club registrations.
Whatever we think about the KC it is still the 'ruling body' and one is
entitled to have registration papers for a pedigree puppy, even a long
coat or non standard colour. Insist upon having those at the time of purchase.
Some breeders who tattoo may delay registration in order to have the tattoo
on the registration form in that event, the registration paper will not
be available at 8 weeks but in that case, you should have a written agreement
that the puppy has registration papers to come. You would be
surprised at how many people wait months or even years, for registration
papers and it is not the KC's fault.
Vaccinations.
Although not all breeders do it, you should expect to see the puppys vaccinated
at about 6 weeks against distemper, parvo virus etc.and would expect that
as part of the price. You should expect to be given the veterinary vaccination
card at the time of purchase so that you could take this to your vet when
the next jab is due.
Tattoo.
We would expect any self respecting GSD owner to tattoo owner to tattoo
all litters and thus you should expect to receive tattoo forms at purchase.
Although tattooing is not obligatory and many excellent litters may not
be tattooed, I am afraid we would expect it as routine in this breed. Ask
for it.
Pedigree papers.
Most breeders write out their own pedigrees and you should get a 4, better
still 5 generation pedigree. This should be neat and accurate and
should include not only titles such as Ch. but also any working qualifications.
(CD, PD, Sch.H 111, FH etc) There is not always much room on the 4th and
5th generation, but certainly they should be included on the first 3. You
should also expect the hip scores / "a" stamp/ "A" Stamp to be included.
Hip Records.
If you are buying a GSD pup then you must insist upon both parents, at
the very least, being hip scored. You should expect to have the hip scores
put on the pedigrees and to be shown the hip sheet of both parents. Scores
should be listed right hip/ left hip, not simply as a total. Thus 4/5 not
merely 9 . A 4/5 is not quite the same as 0/9. Note that registration certificate
from the KC now include all known BVA/KC hip scores. Some dogs may be German
imports and have German 'a stamps'. And in that event you should ask to
see the dogs pedigree and be shown the 'a stamp' mark and the category
of 'a stamp'.
These are normal, fast normal, and noch zujelassen and they vary in quality.
We personally, would prefer to see BVA scores rather than German Grades,
but we certainly would not expect to buy on hip certification on both parents.
Some breeders give you excuses as to why their dog is not scored, or they
may allow you to see the hip X ray even though your ability to 'read' radiographs
is nil. All of these are merely excuses. There is no justification what
so ever not to score/ grade breeding stock and if you are persuaded to
buy without such records and the thing goes wrong, then your statutory
rights may be jeopardised. If parents are not hip scored then you are foolish
to buy the pups.
Elbow details.
Elbow problems ( OCD, UAP and to a lesser extent FPC) are known to this
breed. Already the GSDCA is running an elbow scheme and in this country
the BMD breed (which admittedly has poorer elbows than the GSD) is being
elbow scored by Dr.S Guthrie at London University. Scoring is 0/1/2 or3
on each elbow with the higher number being the worst. In our BMD we only
have 0/0 and 0/1 stack, but we would still use 1/1 but would not use 3
on either elbow and would be cautious with 2's. However, at present in
British GSD's elbow grades would be an additional perk you might expect
to see.
Haemophilia.
All breeding males should be haemophilia tested and I would advise you
mot to buy pups sired by dogs which have not received Breed Council Certificates
on this count. It is cheap to do and once done, is for life, so there is
no excuse for not having one done. Again, dont listen to any excuses.
Breed Survey.
You should seek to have puppies from Breed Surveyed Class 1 or 2 parents.
Although it is not the norm it will only become so if buyers insist upon
it. In a breed where everything German is lauded, I find it astonishing
and appalling that so many breeders, who seem to worship upon the water
upon which the SV walks, do not insist upon surveying their stock. If they
lived in Germany, they would have no choice. So, if you are buying puppies,
especially if you are buying for exhibition or breeding then ask for survey
papers. Insurance. Many breeders will insure a pup for about 6 weeks post
purchase. This is for the price of the dog and usually paid by the
breeder who gets a discount anyway. If the buyer wants to insure
thereafter, it is up to them, but it means they are covered over the first
high risks of life.
Endorsements.
The KC allows breeders to registration papers. They can only be done by
the breeder at the time of ownership and once lifted, can not be reapplied.
The essence of the endorsements are 'Name not changeable'. 'Progeny not
for registration'. 'Export certificate can not be issued'. 'Animal not
for exhibition'. May breeders will increasingly use one or all of
these endorsements. We would expect to put all of these but the last for
a GSD pup, and as a puppy buyer you must expect to see some of these. 'Name
not changeable' does not mean you cannot call your puppy any name you like,
but merely you can not add your affix to the dogs registered name.
It is therefor of minimal importance to the pet owner. The 'export certification'
does not prevent you from taking your dog abroad, but stops you form doing
so and registering it elsewhere (other than probably Japan). 'Progeny
not for registration' is an embargo on breeding, since it means that if
you do breed a litter while this in force, the KC will not register the
progeny. 'Not for exhibition' is not what one would expect to see except
in a dog of non standard colour or was sold with an obvious flaw that made
exhibition futile. And in that case the price should reflect this. If you
do have endorsements on the pedigree form these must be drawn to your attention
before you buy, ( preferably in writing.) You must also know (ideally in
writing) under what circumstances they would be lifted. For example, we
use the first 3, but would not lift the fourth only if the owner wishes
to emigrate and take the dog with them. and we would lift the progeny barrier
only if the GSD is graded Class 1 or 2 on Breed Survey, which would mean
that the hips had been done and the dog to be of satisfactory quality.
If it can not make class 1 or 2, then it isn't worth breeding from anyway.
Diet sheets and general information.
You should expect to get a detailed diet sheet showing exactly what you
have to feed the dog on and the general care involved. We do this, and
also give every buyer a copy of my ring press book on GSD's. In the case
of BMD owners, we enrol them into the Northern Bernese Club for the first
year, since it is a progressively ethical club. We also give phone/ fax
numbers and insist that if there are any problems at whatever time of day
or night, the buyers are able to contact us. After sales service is crucial
and breeders who do not provide it are to be avoided.
Contracts.
I get involved in a lot of Litigation cases as an exert witness and often
they arise because, at the time of purchase everything was verbal and nothing
was written. When things go wrong, buyer claim they bought the dog as a
breeding. show dog and breeders say it was sold as a pet. But it is one
mans word against another. If you are buying a GSD, you ought to insist
upon having a written agreement which states what the dog is sold as and
what endorsements exist, and under what circumstances they would be lifted
if at all. A breeder might insist you hip score your puppy at between 12
and 16 months of age and if you sign to do that,
you will have to do it, but you will also know you have a breeder who is
thinking about what he/she does. The agreement might also say what happens
if you let the puppy go. Many caring and reputable breeders expect to do
their own rescue and would expect the dog you cant or dont want to keep
to go to them.
Conclusion.
There is a need for a buyer to shop around and find the best deal he/she
can get for the sort of puppy they want. I am not talking about haggling,
because most breeders, quite rightly, will not argue about prices, but
rather what you get for your money. The things I have described above,
seem to me to be legitimate requirements for a puppy buyer and in the end,
much will depend upon what the breeder offers you, and what sort of rapport
you find the breeder has with his/ her dogs and the one they are
selling you. If the impression you get is that the breeder cant wait to
get your money and 'be rid of the pup' then is that the place you want
to buy from?. Is it likely that this type of breeder will give you support
if things go wrong, or do you expect that the answer to any problem you
may encounter is likely to be 'you bought the pup, so it is you to you
to
Solve the problem?
If you receive the impression that the breeder is not too caring, then
stay clear and go to one who obviously does care. What you must not expect
is a world beater for £250. You might, but if you do, you are fortunate
in the extreme. If you are buying an 8 week old pup then you must not expect
it to be a future champion. And if you bought it as show/ breeding animal
as opposed to a pet, you must not be surprised if things do not go exactly
to plan. If you really want a show/ breeding animal, then you ought really
to be looking at older stock and higher prices because even in the best
kennels and the best blood lines one can not ensure perfection at 8 weeks
will remain perfection at 12 months or more. Some risks have to be the
buyers, but the sort of risks that stem from going to the wrong place to
buy and buying without any guarantees of anything........... even that
the dog is registered, are really not risks you should be taking.
©GSD
Rescue & Rehoming North East.
All the money
raised by or donated is spent on the welfare of the dogs in our care. No
monies are taken by helpers towards their expenses or receive any
payment for their time.